Why
Wax Your Ski or Snowboard?
Back in the early
days when all skis had wood bases, skiers had little choice but to wax 'em regularly
if they wanted to slide on snow. But along with the introduction of polyethylene
bases (p-tex) came the assumption that skis no longer needed waxing. Wrong...p-tex
is a thirsty plastic that needs frequent wax feedings. In no time at all, the
number of skiers who waxed their skis flip-flopped from 97% who did, to 97%
who didn't. And that's pretty much where it remains today... amazingly, only
3-4% of skiers or snowboarders bother to wax their equipment. The performance
these folks lose because of this misunderstanding is significant...a waxed base
is about 30% easier to turn, more durable and faster than an unwaxed base.
Ski and snowboard bases can
easily lose their ability to absorb wax efficiently. The most common cause is
simply neglecting to wax regularly. The high friction of snow acts like sandpaper
to abrade the ski or snowboard base, wear off wax and leave the p-tex dried out. Another cause
is too much heat created by a poor stonegrinding, the use of excessive speed
or pressure when rotobrushing, or, most commonly, from an improperly used or
uncalibrated wax iron. About half the surface area of most sintered ski and snowboard racing bases
will absorb wax when new...these are call "amorphous" regions. Excess heat converts
these to "crystalline" regions, which do not absorb wax. Furthermore, heating
the ski or snowboard base can increase its oxidation by atmospheric oxygen. Overheating a ski or snowboard base
also dries it out and results in the creation of more unwanted, drag-inducing
p-tex hairs.
You can help thwart most of these problems. When hot-waxing skis or snowboards,
for example, use a decent wax iron that holds a fairly constant temperature
(+ or - 8*F). Most household irons don't...they fluctuate wildly in temperature
(in excess of 40*F). Secondly, calibrate your iron using one of the thermometers
we offer. Third, apply enough wax to the ski or snowboard base so you have a nice molten layer
of wax between the iron and p-tex. Don't let an iron come in direct contact with a
dry ski or snowboard base. Remember, wax...even the pricey fluoro stuff...is cheap compared to
a new pair of skis or snowboard!
Hydrocarbon Waxes
The foundation of most ski and snowboard wax today is paraffin...a hydrocarbon petroleum byproduct
that boasts basic hydrophobic (water-repellent) properties. It penetrates deeper
into ski and snowboard p-tex bases and lasts longest when melted in using a hot wax iron. Less
effective but convenient alternatives are to apply a thin layer of bar wax (like
a crayon), then vigorously rub it in with a wax cork...or use a liquid or paste
formula (similar in texture to car or shoe polish) that you simply rub on, let
dry, and buff off with a clean cloth. ALL-TEMPERATURE
(UNIVERSAL) WAXES
For
most skiers and snowboarders, the most basic and popular wax is a wide-temperature range universal
wax. These are versatile, inexpensive,
reliable and convenient for recreational riders, patrollers, guides, instructors
and other skiers and snowboarders who commonly encounter a wide variety of snow and/or temperature conditions,
and simply need such basic wax benefits as easier turning, decent glide and
greater base durability...more than high
speed. These ski and snowboard waxes are readily available in bar, paste or liquid form. All major
wax companies offer universal hydrocarbon or fluorocarbon universal waxes. TEMPERATURE-SPECIFIC
WAXES
These waxes serve as the foundation for greater performance and racing...and
should be the first wax layer you apply to your skis or snowboard, preferably by hot-waxing. They are
mixes of high-grade paraffins and other additives that offer greater speed in
specific temperature ranges and snow conditions. Depending on your wax brand
of choice (we recommend sticking with one initially to simplify matters), you
can expect to find from three to five different temperature-range waxes offered
by most wax companies, such as:
- Cold wax...for snow temperatures approximately 10*F/-12*C and below. This
is a hard wax mix of paraffin and synthetic paraffins...hardening additives
that make wax more durable, abrasion-resistant, and immune to scratching by
sharp snow crystals (dry friction).
- Midrange wax...for snow temperatures between 10*F/-12*C and 28*F/-2*C. This
is a medium wax formulated to counteract the effects of both moderate dry and
wet friction.
- Warm wax...for snow temperatures 28*F/-2*C and above. This is a soft wax mix
of paraffin and silicone (or similar)...hydrophobic additives that make wax
more water-repellent to combat wet friction.
Fluorocarbon
Waxes
Since their
introduction in 1990, fluorocarbon waxes have proven indispensable at the racing level, where victories are increasingly determined by mere thousands of
a second. Accordingly, more junior and master
ski or snowboard racers have taken more interest in these pricey but prized
speed potions.
WHAT ARE
FLUOROS?
Unlike regular paraffin-based hydrocarbon waxes which are comprised
of carbon molecules with neutrally-charged hydrogen atoms, fluorocarbon ski and snowboard waxes
are comprised of carbon molecules with negatively-charged fluorine atoms. Somewhat
like Teflon, they repel water better by reducing friction (capillary attraction)
between bases and water in the snowpack, plus help keep bases cleaner and faster
in dirty snow by repelling dirt particles (which, like the fluorine molecules,
are negatively-charged). Fluorocarbon ski and snowboard waxes
are offered in a variety of both universal and temperature-specific formulations
that range from relatively inexpensive low-fluoro wax (1.5-3% concentration for
low humidity snow), to mid-fluoro wax (3-5% concentration for mid-humidity snow),
to high-fluoro wax (5-15% concentration for high-humidity snow), all the way
up to expensive 100% fluoro overlays for top race speed applications. Low-fluoro wax is
best suited for dry, low humidity conditions (when it’s hard to make a
snowball), mid-fluoro wax is for medium humidity (when it’s easier to
pack a snowball), and high-fluoro wax is for wet and high humidity (when it’s
easy to pack a wet snowball). Different wax companies have varying but similar
standards of humidity levels: Humidity Swix
Toko Dominator
Holmenkol
Low
0-50% 0-40%
0-25% 0-50%
Medium 50-65% 40-70%
25-65% 50-75%
High 65-100
70-100 65-100 75-100%
Since fluoro waxes
are available in specific temperature ranges for skis and snowboards, you should always overlay them
atop their hydrocarbon wax counterparts. Assuming that humidity levels warrant
it (and your budget allows it...since fluoros become increasingly expensive),
you should apply consecutive layers of increasing fluoro concentrations over
your hydrocarbon wax...i.e.- apply low fluoro layer over hydrocarbon layer,
then higher fluoro over the low fluoro layer, etc. Finally, a coat of
low-fluoro paste wax applied to ski or snowboard sidewalls and tops can help improve
glide when cranking ‘em up on edge for carving turns, as well as helping
prevent unwanted snow buildup on topsheets.100% FLUOROCARBON
OVERLAY WAXES
These 100% fluorocarbon overlays are offered in a variety of forms…including powders,
blocks, liquids and pastes. A quick review of these top-end products can help
you determine which are the most practical, safe, effective and economical to
use. 100% FLUORO
POWDERS
Powders were the first 100% fluoros to arrive on the ski and snowboard race scene. They require the
greatest expertise to apply and are best applied indoors where wind won’t
interfere. They’re sprinkled on and spread uniformly over the ski or snowboard
base, then lightly tamped down using a hand cork, the palm of a clean hand,
or with a heated iron. Then they’re melted into underlying wax layers
(which, for best results, should include low, medium and/or high fluoro-concentrate
waxes appropriate for your snow conditions) using either a hot wax iron or cork. Using an iron to
melt in these overlays yields the greatest durability, but also requires very
careful attention…especially since the temperature necessary to melt fluoro
powders is hot enough to burn a ski or snowboard race base, as well as potentially create
lung-damaging fumes. Although traditionally utilized by experienced technicians
for maximum wax durability on long icy World Cup speed courses and nordic races
25K or longer, it’s an unnecessarily risky application for most juniors,
masters, coaches or parents to attempt. A safer alternative
is to use a hand or rotocork to rub and melt overlays into ski or snowboard bases. Using a hand cork
powered by lotsa elbow grease...or an electric drill to spin a rotocork...they create
heat via friction to melt fluoros into the base. Although they don’t generate
temperatures as high as an iron to yield equally durable results, corks effectively
bypass the safety and health concerns of ironing, while still providing the same
fluoro speed benefits, which is ideal for juniors and masters who rarely race
on courses as long, hard or abrasive as World Cup ski and snowboard competitors. Powders aren’t
cheap. World Cup service techs use ¼ to ½ ounce on each pair of
skis or snowboard, regardless if they iron or cork it in. At retail, this translates
into $25-$60 per application…a hefty price for even top racers. 100% FLUORO
BLOCKS
More recently, 100% fluoro blocks were introduced. These are 100% powders which
are poured into a mold and compressed under extreme pressure (1000+ pounds).
This process not only transforms them into solid form, but crunches fluoro particles
into a smaller size which melts into bases at a lower temperature than powders. Fluoro blocks are
applied to ski or snowboard bases by rubbing them on by hand like a crayon.
A thin uniform layer is adequate to melt it in with a hand or rotocork, whereas
a thicker layer is needed for ironing to avoid the risk of accidentally burning
bases.For this reason,
ironing in block overlays is advised only for long nordic races (25K or more)
where maximum durability is required. Otherwise, hand or rotocorking is safer
and equally effective for junior or master racers in all other events…and
has likewise gained increased popularity on the World Cup, especially for technical
alpine events. Corking in these fluoro blocks
also allows for more convenient application for ski or snowboard racers, whether applied inside a waxroom or outside at the race start. Blocks are also less expensive than powders, costing
about $10 per application when corking in a thin layer, or $20-30 when ironing
in a thicker layer.100% FLUORO
LIQUIDS & PASTES
100% fluoro liquids and pastes are the newest potions on the race hill. They
are usually the fluid equivalent of powders or blocks, at least when offered
by the same manufacturer (although there are exceptions to this, so check to
make sure). They contain fluoro particles smaller than those used in powders
or solids, which, combined with an evaporative solvent, allows them to permeate
into underlying ski or snowboard base material and waxes without corking or ironing. They’re
simply wiped on ski or snowboard bases and allowed sufficient time to dry thoroughly. This can take
5 minutes or more depending on weather/drying conditions, and is critical for
good results. Although fluoro liquids
and pastes can be applied directly onto base wax layers for economy’s
sake, most World Cup techs apply them over fluoro powder or block applications…especially
for very wet snow conditions…believing this improves their effectiveness
and durability. The greatest advantage of fluoro liquids and pastes, however,
is their ability to provide superior overall base coverage, since their fluidity
lets them penetrate deeper into the recesses of aggressive ski and snowboard base structures where
powders and blocks can’t always reach. There are numerous
fluoro liquid and paste overlays on the market today, and their formulations,
durability, and cost per application can vary from brand to brand. We’ve
listed some of the most popular and proven products here, and suggest obtaining
more detailed info about them at their respective websites. Parting notes…
Always consult the wax manufacturer’s recommendations before applying 100% fluoro
overlays to ensure they’ll correctly match your race snow conditions…otherwise,
you may actually end up spending lots, and getting less speed!Fluoro overlays can
be applied to ski and snowboard bases the night before a race if you’re confident of race day snow
conditions, or the morning of a race. You’ll want to do any ironing or
powder applications indoors (preferably at room temperature), whereas fluoro
blocks or liquids/pastes can be applied by corking or wiping them on nearly
anytime or anywhere…even at the race start if weather and drying conditions
allow.After applying powder
or block fluoros by iron or cork, finish the job by making a light pass with
a plastic wax scraper, rub the base with a felt pad, brush out any excess fluoros
in the ski or snowboard base structure with a horsehair and/or fine nylon brush, polish again with
a felt pad and give the base a final wipe using a clean lint-free paper or cloth. Liquid or paste applications
can be finished by buffing ski and snowboard bases with a felt polishing pad, brushing with a
fine nylon hand brush, and wiping the base with a lint-free paper towel or clean
cloth.These steps remain
essentially the same for all gear…snowboards, alpine and nordic race skis…since
most all their race bases utilize similar quality p-tex.
PERSONAL TIPS FROM WORLD CUP TECHS FOR 100% FLUORO OVERLAYS
“Remove
any remaining fluoro waxes or overlays from ski and snowboard steel edges after application, or
they’ll feel slow in the snow.” –Pam Warman (former U.S.
Ski Team/World Cup men’s alpine race service technician) “A synthetic
cork distributes fluoro powder more uniformly over a ski or snowboard base than a natural cork…use
it before heating powder in with an iron or rotocork.” -Ian Harvey (former
member U.S. Nordic ski team, U.S. Olympic team, U.S. Biathlon team, and U.S.
Nordic national champion; current Toko product manager and race service technician)“When hand
or rotocorking powder, spray a light spritz of water on splotchy spots if they
appear to help smooth them out and blend them into the base.” -Willi Wiltz
(former K2 race service technician & DH alpine ski development; Canadian
national team race service technician; Olympic/World Cup race service technician
for Tommy Moe/Dynastar, Bode Miller/Fischer and Dahron Rahlves/Atomic)“Don’t
rotobrush ski and snowboard bases at the race start…it can create more unwanted static
friction which can increases drag.” -Randy Graves (former Rossignol U.S.
Team & World Cup race service technician, junior program coordinator and
alpine ski product manager; current Green Mountain Valley School teacher, coach
and race service technician) “Heavy pressure
rotocorking may dull steel edges, as the cork invariably touches them unless
your ski or snowboard base bevel is unusually high…but this is not a problem on Nordic
skis”. -Dave Peszek ( former Holmenkol brand manager and
head World Cup alpine race service technician) “To keep them
clean, store any corks, pads and brushes used for applying fluoro overlays a
marked ziplock bag. This keeps them from getting “contaminated”
by any other waxes or dirt, plus allows 100% fluoros to build up in them for
handy touch-up applications on the hill.” -Steve Poulin (Swix national
sales manager) “After racing,
scour any remaining 100% fluoros from ski and snowboard bases by simply skiing them off, followed
up with hot-scrape waxing when you return to the workshop.” -Randy Graves
(former Rossignol U.S. Team & World Cup race service technician, junior
program coordinator and alpine ski product manager; current Green Mountain Valley
School teacher, coach and race service technician)
“Fluoros bond best to fluoros. For best race performance and durability,
start with a ski or snowboard hydrocarbon base wax, then add at least one layer of fluoro base
wax (low, medium and/or high fluoro) before applying 100% fluoro overlays.”
-Tom Reinerth (former U.S. Pro ski racer; former Salomon North America race
service technician; current Dominator Wax North American distributor and race
service technician) “Avoid ironing
in fluoros whenever possible to avoid accidentally burning ski or snowboard bases …I’m
not a proponent of molesting race base material!” –Mike deSantis
(former World Cup race service technician for Hillary Lindh & Volkl, cofounder/owner
of www.precisiontuningcenter.com)“I use clean
old lint-free diapers to give my ski and snowboard race bases a final polish and
wipe!” -Randy Graves (former Rossignol U.S. Team & World Cup race
service technician, junior program coordinator and alpine ski product manager;
current Green Mountain Valley School teacher, coach and race service technician) 100% FLUORO
OVERLAYS (listed by manufacturer for 2006/2007)
Dominator (www.dominatorwax.com)-Q Powder, Q6 or 65 Block, R6 Paste
Holmenkol (www.holmenkol.us)- PF Powder, Speedblock and Paste, Nanospeed Fluid
Swix (www.swixsport.com)- Cera F Powders, Blocks and Liquids
Toko (www.tokous.com)- Jetstream Powders, Jetstream Race Bloc, Helx Liquids
Raceservice 1- Speedline Fluoro Overlay
FLUOROCARBONS VS. FLAMES...BE
ATTENTIVE
Many people associate fluorocarbon waxes with their highly toxic, reactive and
ozone-eating cousins...chloro-fluorocarbons (CFC's). But the fluorocarbons used
in ski and snowboard waxes do not belong in this category...in fact one of their primary characteristics
is inertness, or very limited reaction to other materials and compounds. Analysis
and tests done on Swix Cera F, for example, showed that when used as recommended,
it will not react with human body tissue or fluids.
The melting point of these fluorocarbon waxes is higher than most hydrocarbon
waxes, but about the same as hard synthetic paraffin waxes. Use an iron with
a surface temperature of no higher than 300 F. (150 C.) to create a temperature
in the wax layer of 250 F. (120 C.). Or avoid the use of an iron altogether
and cork fluorocarbons directly into the ski or snowboard base. But beware of very high temperatures and open flames with any ski or snowboard fluorocarbon waxes, since they start to degrade at 570 F. (300 C.), and will decompose at 930 F. (500
C.). During degradation, toxic fumes (so-called Polymer smoke fever) is likely
to occur, which can blister and sear the lungs. High temperatures will likewise
melt down p-tex base material.
We recommend the following precautions: Do not heat fluorocarbon waxes or powders
with an open flame or waxing torch, nor should people be waxing skis and snowboards in the same
room with open flames. This includes space heaters, cigarette smoking, open
fireplace, etc. Do not roll your own cigarettes or anything else if you are
working with fluorocarbons, unless you've washed your hands real clean. Wear
a respirator and always work in a ventilated room or tent, or even outdoors...
waxing in a crowded room is never recommended if you can avoid it, since you
never know how careful everyone else is with their waxing. This precaution can
be applied to allski and snowboard waxes...hydrocarbon or fluorocarbon... since breathing any smoke is unhealthy.
