Ski & Snowboard Vises
BOMBER
BENCHTOP
Last year I replaced the workbench in our ski patrol room that receives
extensive use each season. Prior to clamping ski vises to the 3/4" plywood benchtop,
I routed out a space to inlay a 3/8" thick x 4" wide steel plate to run along
the full length of the outside edge of the benchtop. I used epoxy and bolts
to mount this plate. Not only has this steel plate provided a solid foundation
for ski vises to sit on, but the edge of the plate is handy for cleaning wax,
p-tex shavings, edge filings, etc. off of scrapers and brushes too.
-Steve Hayden, Laurier, WA
DOUBLE-UP
BENCH PLANS
I recently built a ski vise using your “Build Your Own Ski Tuning Bench” plans.
I had a sheet of 3/4”-thick plywood that was wider than the plans called for...so
I decided to add a second row of pegs next to the original ones, plus I made
a second wooden boot “dummy” plate. Now I can use it to put a pair of skis in
the vise at the same time to save me time waxing and tuning. Thanks for the
great plans.
-Bill Mitchell, Fort Payne, AL.
SKI KEEPER
Cap and radial sidewall skis keep popping out of my old pair of steel
vise jaws. I use heavy rubber bands (brake hold-downs) and slip one over the
tail of my ski. Then I put the ski in my vises, and wrap this band down and
under the rear vise body. This applies enough pressure to pull down the ski.
I start at the tip and work down to this band, then switch it to the front vise
body and finish tuning the ski tail.
-Martin Siegel, Erie, PA
REMEDY FOR OLD SKI VISES
I use duct tape to help keep cap skis in my old pair of ski vises.
I take a short piece and roll it up sticky side out. Place it in the vise jaw
before tightening the ski in the jaws. If you don't over tighten, the tape conforms
to the sloping ski sidewall and helps hold it pretty firmly in place.
-Paul Siegel, Port Jefferson, NY
BETTER SKI VISE GRIP
When using old style ski vises, newer cap ski models will often want
to pop out. To help keep skis in the vise jaws, cut small pieces of some sticky-back
boot-fitting foam sheets or pads, and stick them on the inside of the metal
vise jaws...they might just be what you need.
-Fred Reininger, Bellevue, WA
POP-OUT PREVENTION
How do you get your cap or trapezoidal sidewall skis to keep from popping
out of your old ski vises? Pencil out a jig on a couple 1"x4" pieces of wood
to match the shape of your boot soles, then cut them out with a jig saw and
sand them down. Snap 'em into your ski bindings, and grip the wood, rather than
the ski sidewall, in the ski vise...it'll hold like there's no tomorrow.
-J. P. De St Croix, Visalia, CA
VISE GRIP
Cap skis, as well as those using underbinding plates, are sometimes
difficult, if not impossible, to securely grip (base up) in a pair of traditional
vises...but here's a trick that can help. Position the vises as usual on your
workbench, then open the jaws wide enough to grip not only the ski sidewalls,
but the steel edges of the ski as well, if you can. In other words, the entire
ski is lowered down into the vise jaws.
When you start base edge filing or beveling... or base sanding, structuring
or flattening... loosen the grip of the vise closest to the ski tip, lift the
ski up high enough so the vise jaws only "cradle" the sidewalls there and leave
the edges exposed, but keep the other vise clamped snug near the tail of the
ski. As you work back toward the ski tail, reverse this arrangement so the ski
tip is again snugly gripped in the front vise, while the rear vise grip is loosened
and the ski is raised up to "cradle" the sidewalls there.
When waxing and scraping, move the two vises closer together so you can try
to get a little grip on the thicker cap sidewalls there. This technique may
not look especially pretty or professional, but it's surprisingly effective
once you get it down.
-Duncan George, Ontario, Canada
VISE LIFTERS
The heel units of some ski bindings are pretty big...when you try to
clamp the ski they're mounted on in a ski vise, the heel unit doesn,t allow
enough room for the ski to seat properly in the vise jaws. You can resolve this
problem by slipping a 1/2" to 3/4" thick wood block between the workbench top
and the ski vise before clamping the vise to the workbench. It effectively raises
the ski vise higher off the bench to accommodate these bigger bindings.
-Mark Sewell, Fair Oaks, CA
D-I-Y SKI/BOARD
VISE
I made two simple wood supports from 2 x 6” scraps that rest (or can be clamped)
on a workbench. They feature a strip of rubber bath mat on top to create friction,
and you set your skis or snowboard atop that for waxing or basic tuning needs.
- Bill Riebel, Bay Village, OH
HOMEMADE
SKI VISE
A makeshift ski vise can be fashioned by opening the leaves of a dining
table about 18" (or the distance from the front of your toepiece to the back
of your heelpiece), then laying some nonslip rubber-like mat (like Tool-Mate)
down over the table halves. Set your ski base up with your bindings in the table
gap, or turn them diagonally as necessary if the leaves don't open wide enough
and you now have your skis secured base up on a non-skid surface. This technique
can also be tried using 2 end tables, nightstands, sawhorses, etc.
-Peter Duspiva, Merrimack, N.H.
TRAVEL VISE
When travelling and staying in motels or condos, I carry basic tuning tools
but not a vise. Instead, I use a product called Air Putty...available from orthopedists
and used as an exercise aid. The stuff is sort of like Silly Putty that kids
play with. For a makeshift ski vise, I arrange two armchairs (or other pieces
of furniture) the right distance apart so I can span a ski from one across to
the other (tip on one, tail on the other). Then I put a small
blob of Air Putty on each armrest, turn the ski base up, and push it down on
the putty...which holds the ski firmly while you do your tuning. When you’re
finished, the putty picks up easily without leaving any residue on the furniture.
I have a small container (about 3 oz.) of ‘medium hardness’. I’ve used it for
several years with no signs of deterioration. I’ve seen it listed on the Internet
and priced at about $6.00 per container.
-Ray Harvey, Oriental, NC
MAKESHIFT SKI VISE
When travelling, I sometimes use the motel sink and counter to tune my gear.
I use towels to help support the skis if necessary and lay newspaper under everything
to keep the mess to a minimum.
-Gail Shamp, E Wenatchee, WA
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Brake Retainer Tips
SKI BRAKE RETAINERS
A
good ski brake retainer can be fashioned from a short length of 12 or 14 gauge
three-strand electrical wire. The plastic cover over the wire protects both
the skis and your hands from scratches and the wire is flexible but strong enough
to hold the ski brakes up and out of the way.
-Kirk Newsom, Allentown, PA
MORE SKI BRAKE RETAINERS
Other items you can use for ski-brake retainers as suggested by our
readers:
*short length of coat hanger wire
*large rubber O-ring
*long velcro ski straps
*bicycle innertube section
*rubber band from broccoli bunch
*bicycle pedal toe-strap
SKI BRAKE REMINDER
If you install higher lifter plates under your alpine ski bindings,
make sure your ski brake arms are still long enough to work effectively.
HOOK
IT
I've found a very effective ski brake retainer (at least for Tyrolia
bindings) is the metal hook paint can opener found at paint stores. The little
bend on the end keeps the retainer from slipping off, the loop on the other
end makes removal easy, the length of the opener is about the width of a ski,
and the price of these items is very attractive...usually free!
-John Scott, Okermos, MI
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Other Related Vise Tips
CHEAP TIP &
TAIL SUPPORTS
In
my never ending quest for doing things as inexpensively as possible, I've discovered
that a 19oz can of Campbell's Home Cookin, Soup is the perfect size to support
tips and tails of a ski clamped in a Trusty (the cheapest!) ski vise. Not only
is it more stable than 2x4 blocks and cheaper than manufactured supports, but
it tastes great after working in a cold garage or waxing shed. Also, I just
completed my first major p-tex repair using your tools and expert advice...thanks,
it worked great!
-Kevin Hall, Topanga, CA